Sheridan, MT to Custer, SD

Morning in Sheridan came too early after the previous night’s picture slideshow and scotch.  We set out for Route 14 which promised to be the scenic route to Devil’s Tower http://www.nps.gov/deto/.  A few miles in, we found that the road turned to hard-packed gravel from the first flagger.  The next flagger down the road told us that we’d sink 8 inches into the mud but that a car escort would be leading the way.  While we didn’t mind the gravel, the mud was going to be a problem.  She told us of a way around the mud by taking I-90 to an alternate route for a mile that would reconnect us with Route 14 after the construction.  Optimistically, we left for the alternate route and followed a gravel road for several miles with no signs of 14.  Finally, we found the right road, but it was still mud.  So far, an hour spent on the road and about 9 miles covered.

After turning around a second time, we headed further down I-90 and meant to reconnect with 16 which would take us back to 14.  By that time, the rain had started and going back to the original route would have set us back even more time.  Lunch was at Granny’s Kitchen where we wondered if we’d even be able to see Devil’s Tower in all the clouds.  Since we were already on the way, we decided to go see it.  Bundled back up, we headed back into the wet weather.  Dave vouches for the Gerbing gloves since they stayed dry and kept him warm.  Wearing an Aerostich Roadcrafter for the first time on a long trip, I can see why people wear heated gear.  My First Gear is fully lined and keeps me warm and dry up until 35 degrees just fine.  The Roadcrafter is not lined and is not as windproof as the label claims.

Rounding the first turn that gave us a view of Devil’s Tower was breathtaking.  All around, the gently rolling hills and scrubby brush had no hint that a giant rock would be so prominent.  We stopped at every turnout to take more and more pictures as we came closer.  After paying the entrance fee to the first National Monument site ever, we found not only restroom facilities but a 1.3 mile hike around the tower.  Not to pass up on such an opportunity, all three of us headed up the base in all of our gear since the weather looked ominously wet still.  The group went all the way around and read all the signs to learn about its history.  First, ponderosa pine forests require fire in order to have a healthy environment.  After 100 years of fire suppression, the national monument staff prescribes fire.  Second, June is a sacred month for the Native Americans who leave prayer bundles and prayer clothes in the trees.  For that reason, June is a voluntary month for restricted rock climbing.  Third, the porcupines in the area eat the bark at the bottom of the pine trees.  All told, the hike was well worth the time for the photos and experience.  Afterwards as we packed up to continue on our trip, we met a guy who was on his 70^th day of a 100 day trip.  He had done 12,000 miles already from Florida to Alaska and his website is at http://5pears.org which is automatically updated with GPS coordinates from his phone.  His friend and inspiration is at http://5pairs.com since he did a similar trip with only 5 pairs of underwear.

All done, we were ready to meet up with others STN’ers in Custer, but Garmin was telling me that the American Presidents Resort was 18 miles east of Custer.  Whatever the problem is, it kept attempting to route us onto forest service roads.  I introduced myself to Eric and gained custody of the ultimate STn travel buddy, Chili.  There is no better way to become friends than to share a beer with ‘im.